Old Florida Delights at Marsh Landing

He began his career by working on a riverboat. That step put Chef Alan Pope on a course that would eventually lead to Marsh Landing in Fellsmere.

The riverboat was on the Ohio River, and Pope recalls the occasion when, as a young man, he approached the head chef there and asked for a job. “I told him, ‘I have no experience, but if it doesn’t work out in a week, then fire me.’” It was a bold maneuver, and it worked. A week later, Pope still had his job.

Later in his career, he became the executive chef himself, this time at a prestigious Cincinnati steak house called “The Precinct.” One of his guests there was astronaut Neil Armstrong. “He was very quiet and didn’t make a big deal out of himself. He came in late, when most of the crowd was gone. I’m sure he ordered steak—that’s what we were known for.”

In search of a tropical climate, Pope eventually moved to Florida, working as a chef at various restaurants in the Keys. His move to Fellsmere has provided him with a laid-back environment that he finds welcome. “I’m a big fan of mom-and-pop joints. I’ve always said that good food does not have to be complicated, and that everybody who eats should know that,” he chuckles.  

Marsh Landing is a colorful spot, its walls adorned with old farming implements, posters advertising the local Frog Leg Festival through the years, and taxidermy specimens from gators to stag’s heads. It might seem as if the Florida homestyle favorites the restaurant is known for would be foreign to Pope, but he recalls that while he was at The Precinct, he offered a frogs’ legs appetizer. “And just on a whim, I did gator there.”  

It’s a staple at Marsh Landing, but how did it go over in an Ohio steak house? “Gator is unique,” Pope says with a laugh. “You either love it or hate it.” Now, Pope’s gator dishes have an appreciative audience. And the chef himself appreciates how his journey has taken him from the riverboat to the marsh.

Pimento Cheese Biscuits

Yields 1 batch

“This is a recipe that was in-house when I got here,” says Pope. “It’s been a Marsh Landing favorite for many years.”

Begin with your favorite homemade biscuit recipe.

Pimento Cheese

• 8 oz. shredded sharp cheddar cheese
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 tsp. sugar
• 2 oz. pimentos to taste, drained

In a medium-size mixing bowl, mix all ingredients until well combined. Store leftover portion in a refrigerated airtight container.

Bacon Jam

• 1 lb. bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 shallots, minced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/4 cup maple syrup
• 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1 tsp. chili powder

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, cook bacon until crispy. Transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate, reserving about 1 tbsp. bacon fat in the pan. Reduce heat to medium-low. 

Add onion and shallots to the pan and cook, stirring often, until the onions are caramelized (about 15 minutes). Stir in garlic, brown sugar, maple syrup, vinegar, chili powder, and cooked bacon. Bring mixture to a simmer and then reduce heat to low. Cook until the liquid has reduced and thickened and the onions are a “jam-like” thickness (7–10 minutes). Store leftover jam in the refrigerator for future use.

To serve: Cut the homemade biscuits in half, butter each open side, and brown in the skillet with each open side face down (think grilled cheese). Top each with 2 tbsp. pimento cheese, or more if you like. Then top with 1 tbsp. bacon jam.

Horseradish-Stuffed Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Peach Barbecue Sauce

Serves 2

This is a recipe from Pope’s days at The Precinct, but he notes that it’s “very Southern in style.”

• 10 shrimp (shrimp cocktail–size), peeled and deveined, tails removed
• 10 slices applewood smoked bacon, lightly cooked (not too crispy)
• 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. horseradish (liquid pressed out) for each shrimp
• 2 skewers, each 8 inches in length

Slice each shrimp down the back, deep enough to get the horseradish in. Then wrap the cooked bacon around the body to cover the shrimp and hold in the horseradish. Insert the skewer through the tail and then the body in a U-shape. Place 5 stuffed and wrapped shrimp on each skewer. 

Bake in a 350-degree-Fahrenheit oven until shrimp is cooked and bacon is crispy. Ladle 3 oz. peach barbecue sauce over each skewer and return to the oven for 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

Peach Barbecue Sauce

• 1 bottle of your favorite barbecue sauce 
• 1 can (14.5 oz) diced peaches

In a small saucepot, add the barbecue sauce, peach puree, and diced peaches. Simmer for 3 minutes on a low flame. Makes enough for future meals. Store in the refrigerator.

Bourbon Caramel Pecan Pie

“This is another Marsh Landing classic, and I think of it as the perfect Southern dish.”

• 1 unbaked deep-dish pie shell
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1 cup corn syrup 
• 6 tbsp. butter
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 2 tbsp. favorite good-quality bourbon
• 1 1/2 to 2 cups pecan halves or quarters

In a saucepan, combine brown sugar, corn syrup, and butter; bring to a soft boil over low heat. Cook until golden. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. 

Pour mixture over beaten eggs, stirring constantly to prevent scrambling. Add bourbon. 

Pour pecan pieces into pie shell. Pour liquid mixture over pecans until shell is full. 

Bake at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for 45–60 minutes until pie is set; do not burn pie shell edges. If edges become brown before the pie is done, wrap crust with aluminum foil. 

Cool and cut into slices. If you wish, you can top with ice cream and caramel for an extra treat!