Family Style at Johnny D’s Market & Bistro

Johnny D’s Market & Bistro in Vero Beach is a culinary trifecta: dining, takeout, and a select Italian market. It’s also a family enterprise.

“My dad taught us everything we know—he’s awesome,” says owner Nina Amelio. Her father was born and raised in the village of Afragola, near Naples, and came to the United States when he was 23 years old. He owns Pomodoro Grill, and 13 years ago he decided to expand and open up the market and bistro as well. Eventually, he sold it to Nina and her brother Mario; Nina speaks glowingly of Mario’s culinary gifts and notes that he developed many of the recipes. Another brother, Alessandro, is the executive chef at Scampi Grill, so the Amelio family is a dynasty in the Vero Beach Italian restaurant scene.

The name Johnny D’s also has deep family significance. “When we were in the process of building, my cousin John Dechellis passed away,” says Amelio. The market/bistro is named in his memory.

Johnny D’s distinctive combination of dining, takeout, and catering “is a challenge—I’m not going to sugarcoat it,” Amelio says with a smile. However, “it works really well, because if things are slower in one aspect, another will make up for it.” This helps the team adapt to pendulum swings in society. “The older generation enjoys going out and dining. The younger ones like takeout because it’s good for people who are busy. The different facets apply to different people’s lives.”

Each side of the business has its regular customers, who are often drawn to the family atmosphere as well as the Italian cuisine. Amelio relates that one gentleman painted a picture of the building and gave it to her; it is now hanging on the wall. “I was so touched,” she says.

Among her own favorite menu items is the puttanesca. “It’s so simple and so good. Sometimes people want to complicate things, but simple can be all you need. Just puttanesca, good bread, and wine.”

Amelio sometimes bakes bread herself for the market, but it always sells out quickly. “I would have to be baking full-time to keep up with the demand.” The greatest tribute to the bread comes from her father, who, she says, will declare in true Italian fashion, “Even I like this bread.”

Appetizer: Prince Edward Island Mussels

Amelio says that even if you don’t like Sambuca straight up, its fennel flavor is delicious in this dish.

Serves 2

• 10 Prince Edward Island mussels, cleaned and debearded
• 2 tbsp. tricolor bell peppers (red, yellow, and green), julienned
• 1 tbsp. Bermuda onion, finely sliced
• 1 tbsp. leeks, white part only, thinly sliced
• 2 oz. Sambuca
• 3 tbsp. heavy cream
• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter, cold and cubed
• 1 tbsp. fresh basil, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• Salt to taste
• White pepper to taste

In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the bell peppers, Bermuda onions, and leeks. Cook until slightly softened, about 2–3 minutes. 

Deglaze the pan with Sambuca by adding it, carefully letting it flame briefly, and cooking until the alcohol burns off (about 1 minute).

Add the mussels to the pan, cover, and steam 3–4 minutes or until they open. Discard any that do not open.

Make a beurre blanc: remove the mussels and vegetables from the pan with a slotted spoon and set them aside in a serving bowl. Add the cream to the pan and simmer 1–2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and whisk in the cold butter, one cube at a time, until the sauce is velvety. Stir in chopped basil and season with salt and white pepper to taste. 

On the serving plates, spoon the vegetables over the mussels, then drizzle generously with the beurre blanc. Serve immediately with grilled bread or crostini.

Entrée: Gnocchi Carbonara

“It’s got prosciutto and such nice flavors,” says Amelio. “But it is filling, so you’d better be hungry.”

Serves 2

• 1 lb. potato gnocchi (freshly made or store-bought)
• 4 slices prosciutto, cut into thin strips
• 1 cup Vidalia onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup portobello mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
• 1/2 cup sweet peas
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter
• Salt to taste
• Cracked black pepper to taste

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat; add the prosciutto strips and cook until crisp, about 3–4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on paper towels.

In the same pan, melt the butter. Add the sliced Vidalia onions and cook slowly over medium-low heat about 8–10 minutes, stirring often, to caramelize them. Add the sliced portobellos and sauté 4–5 minutes until tender and browned. Season with salt and pepper.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the gnocchi according to package instructions or until they float on top (2–3 minutes for fresh gnocchi). Drain and reserve a small amount of water.

Meanwhile, set the onion-mushroom mixture to a medium-low heat and add the heavy cream. Stir gently. Once warmed through, add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, stirring constantly until melted and smooth. Add a splash of water from the gnocchi pot if needed to adjust consistency.

Add the gnocchi and peas to the cream sauce. Toss gently to coat and warm through. Fold in half of the crispy prosciutto for flavor throughout.

Plate and top with remaining crispy prosciutto. Enjoy this dish hot, with a side of crusty bread.

Dessert: Lemon Ricotta Cookies with Lemon Glaze

This dessert combines two ingredients beloved in Italian cuisine—ricotta and lemons—making for rich, vibrant flavors.

Serves 4

For the cookies:

• 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 stick unsalted butter, softened
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1 container (15 oz.) ricotta cheese, made from whole milk
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• Zest of one lemon

For the glaze:

• 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
• 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• Zest of one lemon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the softened butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time until fully incorporated. Add the ricotta, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Mix until smooth, then gradually stir in the flour mixture.

Drop the dough by rounded tablespoons (about 2 tbsp. per cookie) onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the edges are just starting to turn golden. Remove from oven and let cool on the baking sheet for 20 minutes.

In a small bowl, stir the glaze ingredients together until smooth. Spoon about 1/2 tsp. of glaze onto each cookie and spread gently with back of spoon.